Can you have a kinkajou as a pet

They can be destructive. Household repairs, replacing of technology and other valuables, etc. I have heard and experienced some horror stories! You must have a vet in your area that sees kinkajous and has experience, prior to purchase. Research prices at that vet. Emergencies can be very pricy and many emergency vets will not see them after hours. Again, I have stories to share regarding this, and they are not pleasant. Will all these costs fit within your budget?

These are high energy animals that require a lot of space, A LOT. I estimate an 10X8X10 at least, for a single kinkajou. They are nocturnal. This is not an animal that can typically be retrained to flop its schedule. They innately sleep during the day and are awake ALL night. If you want a creature that's up with you during a normal schedule, look into a diurnal animal — although those too carry many responsibilities.

I dedicate many hours to mine each night. They start waking up around 8 p. When I go to bed around 1 a. That being said, they can also be noisy. They are smart — they say as smart as a 3-year-old I think smarter. For example, we baby proofed our home as they will get into cabinets, closets, onto shelves, climb walls, etc. My one female even learned how to open our sliding glass doors. They can unlock their enclosures.

My one male understands how door knobs work, but cannot turn them. Thank goodness! This is also why enrichment is so important. New activities, furniture, and foods can keep a kinkajou enriched. I circulate enrichments daily. Trying to stay one step ahead of them is a challenge. They are strong-willed. For most, "no" is not a word in their vocabulary. They do what they want and obsess about whatever you don't want them to do.

Once they have an item, it is difficult to get it away from them — they are great thieves. When they want to be in something or somewhere, they will relentlessly try to be there. In some cases, they don't adhere well to redirection. They become vocal and bitey. I've witnessed anything from defensive behavior to aggressive bites. You need to establish a mutual respect with the animal. Discipline is tricky and ineffective. It will hurt your relationship.

Redirection and training are much better options, but take time and consistency. Bites are bad — I mean bad. More often than not, I have heard of and experienced kinkajous no matter how well they were raised biting in defense, frustration, or unpredictability.

Hormones can catalyze an aggressive or unpredictable kinkajou; as well as age, diet, small enclosure, lack of enrichment, relocation even a simple move with the same owner , overstimulation, etc. Bites can be pretty horrific. I've witnessed them and have had my fair share. Will you love your kinkajou unconditionally when it bites you? Will you make appropriate sacrifices and accommodations when you can no longer handle it? Kinkajous have canines comparable to a cat. Their bites are deep punctures that easily tear through skin, muscle, and into bone.

Nerve damage and infection are almost certain. Most kinkajous latch onto your body part and lock their jaw like a vice. Or, they relentlessly bite you repeatedly. It can be unpredictable or have warning. They are painful and scary. In general, kinkajous tend to bond with one or two humans. And if you ever have to rehome your pet, it might find the adjustment very difficult, which can lead to stress and health problems. When handled regularly from a young age, kinkajous are typically happy to sit in their owners' arms or on their shoulders.

Expect to spend at least a few hours per day interacting with your pet to keep it tame. Kinkajous need as large of an enclosure as possible. At minimum, it should be 4 feet wide, 8 feet long, and 6 feet tall. Large macaw enclosures often work well for kinkajous.

Provide several branches, ledges and shelves, and ropes for climbing within the enclosure. Avoid anything with a chain, as this can injure a kinkajou's digits.

Include a hammock or nest box in the enclosure where your animal can go to feel safe and rest. Fleece is a good material out of which to construct a hammock. And many owners fashion a nest box out of a small plastic storage container lined with fleece and attached to the side of the enclosure.

Most owners find it best to confine kinkajous whenever they're not able to supervise the animal. The ideal kinkajou owner would have a similar nocturnal lifestyle as their pet, but that's not an option for many people.

But you still must allow your kinkajou to play and exercise out of its enclosure for at least a few hours each day for socialization and to prevent boredom. Kinkajou-proof the area of your home where you let it play as you would for a toddler—hide power cords, cover outlets, remove breakable objects, etc.

Kinkajous are generally fine with the room temperature of a home. Just make sure the temperature stays above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Additionally, humidity levels should be no less than 50 percent. These animals also can benefit from an outdoor enclosure for more environmental enrichment. Set it up similarly to the indoor enclosure, but make sure your kinkajou always has access to shade. Also, always monitor your animal when it's outdoors in case there are predators or inclement weather in the area.

Kinkajous primarily feed on fruits, nectar, and honey in the wild. But if the opportunity arises they will sometimes eat insects, eggs, frogs , and other plants and blossoms.

In captivity, they can be fed commercial primate foods, which will form a nutritious base to their diet with many vitamins and minerals. They also should get a variety of fruits especially tropical fruits , such as bananas, papayas, mangoes, melons, kiwis, grapes, pineapples, and pomegranates. In addition, they can have some seasonal vegetables and a bit of protein, such as cooked chicken or eggs.

Experts recommend avoiding strawberries, citrus fruits, avocados, broccoli, and onions, along with dairy, chocolate, and caffeine. Consult your veterinarian for the appropriate quantity and variety to feed your animal, as this varies with age, size, and activity level. It's typically best to feed your kinkajou in the evening when it's waking up and looking for food, but ask your vet for the ideal feeding schedule.

Heavy ceramic food bowls that your kinkajou can't flip over or bowls that can be securely attached to the side of the enclosure work well for feeding. Fresh water also should be provided at all times. However, water in a bowl is likely to be dumped or dirtied, so a water bottle with a sipper tube that attaches to the enclosure wall is recommended. Make sure your kinkajou figures out how to drink from the sipper tube before removing its water bowl.

An exotic animal veterinarian who specializes in kinkajous can be difficult to find, but it's important to locate the right vet before purchasing your pet. While these are generally healthy animals, an annual wellness exam is still ideal. Much has changed since the s. If Robert was to import Jeremy now, he would need to travel through an allocated Border Control Post. The kinkajou would then be checked by veterinarians for disease and enter a period of quarantine.

Some populations of kinkajous in Honduras are threatened with local extinction due to capture for the wildlife trade. CITES is a permitting system and international treaty used to ensure the trade in plants and animals does not cause wild populations to go extinct. These restrictions are also in place to ensure the biosecurity of the UK.

The importation rules may have changed since the s, but kinkajous are still considered an unusual pet today.

Kinkajous are nocturnal, very curious and dislike loud noises and sudden movements. Kinkajous are arboreal meaning they are tree-dwellers. To be kept happy in captivity they need a very large space with plenty of climbing opportunities.